« At the beginning of the twentieth century a great change occurred in how the witch was represented in popular culture. Slowly the ugly old hag that snatched children and danced with the devil at night was replaced by a young beautiful witch with a welcoming smile. Advertisers seized this image of the beguiling young witch and utilized it to market a variety of products to the general public. The witches’ changing imagery can be linked with the increasing popularity of Halloween celebrations and the subsequent infusing of glamour and sex appeal into the old folk character. This paper investigates how, when and why the dress and appearance of witches changed from that of an old crone to that of a fashionable young woman.
This study begins with an examination of woodcut prints dating from the fifteenth century that depict images of witches highly influenced by biblical representations of Eve. It is necessary to examine these early images as they were instrumental in establishing what would become an incredibly powerful and long unwavering depiction of this folk character. The persecution of witches and the witch hunts that occurred all over Europe and the Americas from the fifteenth to seventeenth centuries solidified the witch in written works and its place in history but did little in establishing a unifying image. During the eighteenth and nineteenth century when the belief in witches had subsided the iconic costume of a witch began to take shape; pointed hat, cape and long dress. It is only after this congealing of witch iconography and establishment of a witch costume can it then be altered and changed by current fashion and trends until it completely melts away and the witch is pictured entirely in fashionable attire.
The fancy dress manuals of the late nineteenth century are the first sources to alter and change the witch costume by suggesting exactly what should be worn for fancy dress balls and parties to be more fashionable and on trend with Victorian ideals. Next Halloween postcards and magazines further blurred the boundary between witch costume and current fashion. Dennison’s Bogie Books, an early how-to book on Halloween decorating, entertaining and costuming uses contemporary settings and fashion illustrations to sell its Halloween decorations and costumes, and in turn, further pushes the witch toward fully fashionable dress. The final source to be examined, product ads from fashion magazines, will demonstrate that by the end of the 1920s the witch had become a profitable marketing tool and her attire had completely transformed into high fashion of the day with only a few key indicators left signaling that she was a witch. In the end the reader will come away with an understanding of how the costume associated with a witch developed, when and then how it changed with the influence of outside forces during the early twentieth century. » [Résumé]